CANTALOUPE + BROADBENT VERDELHO MADEIRA
“Light as air, but dense and crunchy at the same time”
THERE’S JUST SOMETHING ABOUT UCHI. It’s got a lot of hype and it sits on a busy intersection in Montrose. Maybe it’s the fact that the kitchen seems as large as the seating area, or that the impeccable interior design of wood, brass lights, metal and clay plaster walls adds up to a place that’s both always clean, and always fresh. Service? Up there with the best in the city.
Most likely that special something is the food. It’s just incredible. And, we have it on good authority that the menu is going to be revamped quarterly/seasonally from now on, so be on the lookout for those subtle changes offering even more awesome. Anyway, every time we go we’re blown away, and clearly most of the city
is as well, considering just how busy Uchi always seems to be. So we were quite thrilled when Uchi showed up in our queue of Perfect Pairs. Please let it be the Brussels sprouts, or some fresh Tsukiji sh!!!! But, no, it’s a dessert?!
No way we would have ordered a cantaloupe dessert. It’s a perfectly ne fruit, but over chocolate, vanilla or other, you know, dessert avors? Not our choice. But sometimes a pivot can be good, and this cantaloupe dessert is one of those times. You may not notice in the photo, but this dessert offers you the experience of every texture your mouth can handle. Light as air, but dense and crunchy at the same time. Buttermilk sabayon (bottom layer, kinda like a custard) is cooked sous-vide for two hours, refrigerated until cool, then eventually shot out of a nitrogen canister to make its nal custard-like formation when ordered. Just for a dessert. And this is only one layer!
Next up is the cantaloupe sherbet. Then, the rest of the dessert is from the elder ower, giving us a croquant (French for crisp), some foam (look at that picture), cordil, and meringue! Woah, taste explosion. And the wine? Would. Not. Normally. Order. No
way we would order a madeira, especially considering it’s usually thought of as grandma’s sweet dessert wine. Not so much anymore it would seem. Uchi liked the 10 Year Broadbent Verdelho Ma- deira for its lighter feel and higher acidity content vs. other dessert wines. Uchi tells it like this, “We featured this wine because it didn’t compete with the sweetness off the dessert but rather complement it.” And that’s that, just perfect. Which, we suppose, is why we do these Perfect Pairs, to show you something you (and we) may not have even considered, but absolutely should.